Raising Chicks - Part 1

I'm going to start with one of the simpler aspects and one probably most new homesteaders think about trying.  It's the most natural thing in the world of course, to have a few hens to provide some fresh eggs for the table.  Those hens have to come from somewhere though.  If you aren't in an area where older hens are readily available, then the next logical step would be to raise some yourself.  Now there are a few decisions you'll need to make before you can get started.  First is what breed do you want to raise?  Do you care about the breed?  Are you just wanting a few birds for eggs or think you might be brave enough to butcher a few birds for meat?  Where do you plan on raising the chicks?  Where do you plan on housing the hens?

Birds are one of the only living creatures that can still be shipped via the US mail.  So check the internet, Google for hatcheries.  Be prepared though, this method usually means you'll have to buy at least 25 birds so they'll stay warm during transit.  If you can only buy this way, see if you can find one or two more people that would be interested in co-op buying with you.  Another source could be your local farm supply store, call and see if they carry chicks this time of year.  With this method usually you can expect a minimum purchase to be just 6 birds.  When just starting out, try to limit yourself to only chickens.  I know the other fowl are cute, but generally ducks and chicks need to be raised separately.  Game fowl are a little more fragile, I wouldn't recommend them to a beginner.  I'll get into breed selection a little later.

So now you've ordered your chicks and they are scheduled to arrive in a few days (often you can pre-order to a set date so you'll know when to expect them.  Chicks ship overnight usually.  Talk to your post office if you prefer to pick them up yourself rather than let them ride all day with your postman).  You need to make sure you have your brooder set up and ready so they can go right into it.  Your brooder should be enclosed on all sides.  I would not recommend raising chicks in wire cages (it works better for waterfowl though).  However a large Rubbermaid tub will work just fine while they are small.  You should plan on being able to house them for at least 4-6 weeks indoors, so make sure your container will have plenty of space for the chicks as they grow.  You'll need something on the floor of the brooder, I usually use kiln-dried pine shavings.  Expect to clean out the brooder at least every other week, once a week, or more often depending on the floor space and number of birds.

Baby chicks, even though they do technically have feathers, cannot maintain their own body temperature.  They are poikilothermic and become homeothermic (able to regulate their own body temp) as they mature.  This means they need some kind of outside heat source.  The easiest is a heat lamp with a heat bulb.  These can usually be purchased at any farm supply store.  Make sure the chicks cannot get to the lamp and burn themselves.  It's easiest to suspend the lamp above the brooder.  Start with it about 20" or so above the top of the shavings, but make sure you can adjust as needed.  Ideally, your brooder should have the heat lamp to one side so the chicks will be able to move in or out of the heat as they desire. 

Chicks will also need a waterer, the smallest jar/trough type will do fine for a small number of chicks or very young chicks, but plan on getting at least a 1 gallon waterer for when they get older.  These devices provide fresh clean water and are less prone to soiling.  Don't be fooled though, chicks are very intelligent and can learn to drink from a water bottle just as quickly and easily as any other watering source!  It's a good idea to have a small block of wood or platform to put the waterer on when the chicks get older, to help keep them from kicking soiled bedding into the water.  They'll need fresh clean water daily.

You'll also need a feeder and feed.  I usually recommend one of two feeders: either the jar/base type or the trough type.  Both should have ovular holes in them for the chicks to access the feed.  The jar/base feeder is good for small numbers of chicks and the trough type for larger numbers.  Count the holes and make sure you provide at least 1 opening per chick so that everyone will be able to eat with minimal fighting.  If you have a trough feeder with spinning baffle, then make sure you have at least 1 inch of feeder space per chick.  I always recommend buying a bag of starter chick feed.  Might as well get a 50lb sack as they will eat all of it eventually.  Expect to feed them the starter for at least the first 4-6 weeks of their life, sometimes longer!  Medicated starter isn't really necessary if the chicks are healthy and come from a reputable source.  Have your brooder ready to go the day before the chicks are scheduled to arrive.  Feed in the feeder, waterer setup, heat lamp on and warming the area.

When you pick up your chicks from the post office, you should hear peeping from the box.  Nothing will bring a smile to your face faster.  It's best to minimize stop between the post office and home when picking up your chicks.  Carry the box carefully home and to your brooder.  You'll want to inspect the chicks when you open the box and while you are moving them to the brooder.  Look them over carefully.  They should be on their feet and fairly steady.  Their eyes should be open and bright.  Their rear end should be clean and free of any matted poop.  Remembering that these chicks probably hatched out the day before and have never seen a feeder or waterer, it's your job to show these to them.  Dip each bird's beak into the food and water, then set them under the heat lamp's beam to warm.  After moving all the chicks into the brooder you should leave them alone.  Watching is fine, but give them time to adjust before handling.

Now you are well on your way!